From Across the Aisle to Around the Pit
Lawyers from opposing sides of law find common ground in barbecue
Published in 2024 South Carolina Super Lawyers magazine
By Trevor Kupfer on April 25, 2024
On the surface, Columbia attorneys and barbecue hobbyists Robert F. Goings and Brett H. Bayne appear pitted against each other (pun intended). Goings hails from upstate and litigates injury cases on the plaintiff side with Goings Law Firm, while Bayne is a Texas native litigating on the defense side with McAngus Goudelock & Courie.
“We have a complicated relationship,” Goings says, to which Bayne laughs. “We are opponents on many cases, so we’ve slammed each other’s head into the counsel table in court, litigating hard for our respective clients. But we come together over many things, including well-smoked meat.”
But even that area is rife with conflict. The fight between Texas and South Carolina over barbecue superiority is longstanding, as is the very definition of the method.
Goings, of course, favors whole hog, although he’ll do a butt or shoulder on occasion. “I’ve got a couple of pig farms who do good heritage breeds, and have great, fresh meat,” he says.
Bayne favors the beef varieties—especially whole packer brisket and ribs. And in terms of sauce, he’s a purist. “The viewpoint of Texas is sauce is a crutch. The meat and dry rub should stand on its own. Using sauce at all is slanderous at times,” he says. “There’s a firm, almost religious belief that if you put sauce on it, it’s not barbecue. But, of course, pork is defined by the sauce. That’s the great divide.”
And Goings knows where he lands on it. Despite living in the Midlands (known for its mustard and vinegar sauce), he opts for an Eastern North Carolina style (similar to Pee Dee’s fiery red vinegar sauce). As for sides, “You can’t go wrong with hash and rice,” Goings says. “And in South Carolina, uniformly, macaroni and cheese is everyone’s favorite vegetable.”
“I 100 percent agree,” Bayne says. “I love fried okra, too. That’s big here and in Texas.”
Both attorneys are dedicated to honing the craft at their respective homes.
“Robert and I spend way too much money on smoking equipment,” Bayne says.
“That is true,” Goings agrees.
“Robert sponsors the barbecue every year that we do for the law school alumni,” Bayne says of Joseph F. Rice School of Law, which they both attended. “How many pounds of meat do y’all end up cookin’ on that big smoker?”
“I’d say about a thousand pounds,” Goings answers.
They’re also great appreciators of the many barbecue joints around the state, agreeing that Lewis Barbecue in Charleston and Greenville (a relative of Franklin Barbecue in Austin) is the best for beef. As for pig, there are many great spots, but Scott’s and Palmetto Pig come to mind.
Beef barbecue started permeating the state about a decade ago, Bayne says. “The infiltration has been slow, and it’s a little different because of the wood. Here they use a lot of hickory because it’s a milder smoke. Whereas in Texas it’s a lot of mesquite and post oak.”
Despite all their differences, Bayne and Goings happily break bread (or ribs, in this case) whenever they can.
“If you love barbecue, you appreciate the variety that it has to offer,” Goings says. “I have my traditions, but I love trying other people’s sauces and meats. That’s one thing about barbecue: You can get many different flavor profiles based on how you cook and season it, and that makes it fun. So it’s hard to get into a passionate debate about which is best. The best barbecue that I can have is the barbecue that I’m eating in that moment.”
“I agree with that sentiment,” Bayne adds. “You can have the debate all you want, but give me brisket and give me pork—on the same plate, with the vinegar and the mustard sauce—let’s mix it up and we’re having a great day. Because it’s all delicious.”
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